deal of the way
without seeing where we were going; and once we found ourselves with a
great roof over our heads, hollowed out of the solid rock, and covered
with dripping maiden's-hair. All the rock about was like flint, and worn
into strange shapes by the water.

One day we were accompanied quite a distance through the woods by a
female chief, Yaquina. I think that she is a celebrated woman in Oregon,
and that Yaquina Bay was named for her. She was mounted on a little
pony, and riding along in a free and joyous way, looking about at the
green leaves and the sunshine. I thought of Victoria with her heavy
crown, that gives her the sick headache, and wondered how she would like
to exchange with her.

We were quite interested in some of the people we saw, one of them
especially,--a man whose house had no windows. We felt at first as if we
could not stop with him; but he came out to our wagon, looking so bright
and clean, and had such an air of welcome as he said, "We are not very
well provided, but we are very accommodating," that we at once decided
to stop, particularly as the driver said the horses could not possibly
go enough farther to get to any better place that night. He ushered us
in very hospitably, and looking round the room--the chairs being rather
scarce--said, "There are plenty of seats--on the floor." I saw some
books on a shelf, and, going to look at them, found "Mill's Logic," and
"Tyndall on Sound," and several others, scientific and historical. We
found him, as he said we should, eager to make us comfortable. He
noticed that the baby did not look well, and went out into the woods,
and cut down a little tree that he said would do her good, and urged us
to take it with us. He said that he was generally called in by his
neighbors, in case of sickness or accident. He had learned to help
himself in most ways, as he came there originally with only fifty cents
in his pocket.

Another old man, at the next stopping-place, made a beautiful picture,
as he sat inside his open door, in a great, rough, home-made armchair,
with a black bear-skin for a pillow,--a large, strong man, with long,
shining, silver hair. We were very much pleased to find that we were to
spend the night there, he looked so interesting. All his talk was about
fights with wild beasts and Indians, and cutting down the big trees, and
making the terrible roads we had been over. There was a good deal of
refinement and gentleness, too, about him.