our last. We saw below us great trees that
filled the canyon. They were so very tall, that it appeared as if, after
having grown into what would be recognized everywhere as lofty trees,
they had altered their views altogether as to what a tall tree really
should be, and started anew. We did not wholly enjoy looking down at
their great mossy arms, stretched out as if to receive us. Everywhere
was the most exquisite fragrance, from the Linnaea and other flowers. At
the bottom was a little thread of a brook. After we passed through the
canyon, the brook came out, and went down the mountain side with us. It
was very lively company. Sometimes it hid from us, but we could tell
where it was, by the rushing of the water. Then it would appear again,
whirling and eddying about the rocks. In some places, its bed was of
pure, hard stone, with basins full of foam. Sometimes the rocks were
covered with dark, rich moss. There were retired little falls in it,
that seemed like nuns, so unregarding as they were of all the commotion
about them. Then the whole body of water would gather itself up, and
shoot down some rock, and cut like a sword-blade into the still water
below. We shall long remember that little, leaping, dancing branch of
the Coquille, that runs from the Coast Mountains to the sea.

Upon learning that we were approaching "Empire City," we attempted a
hasty toilet,--as appropriate for entering a metropolis as circumstances
would permit,--but we were kindly informed that we might spare ourselves
the trouble, as the place consisted at present of but a single house; a
carpenter having established himself there, and, with a far-seeing eye,
given the place its name, and started a settlement by building his own
dwelling, and a play-house in the woods for his little daughter.

We spent one night in a myrtle-grove. The trees leaned gracefully
together, and the whole grove for miles was made of beautiful arched
aisles. Coming from our shaggy firs, and the rough undergrowth that is
always beneath them, to these smooth, glossy leaves, and clear, open
spaces of fine grass, was like entering fairy-land, or the "good green
wood" of the ballads. I looked for princes and lovers wandering among
them, and felt quite transformed myself. The driver I regarded as a
different man from that moment; to think that he should show so much
good taste as to draw up for the night in that lovely place.

In coming from the mountain, we had to ride a good