xpect I should say something to you of the antiquities of
this country; but there are few remains of ancient Greece. We passed
near the piece of an arch, which is commonly called Trajan's Gate,
from a supposition, that he made it to shut up the passage over the
mountains, between Sophia and Philippopolis. But I rather believe
it the remains of some triumphal arch, (tho' I could not see any
inscription;) for if that passage had been shut up, there are
many others that would serve for the march of an army; and,
notwithstanding the story of Baldwin earl of Flanders being
overthrown in these straits, after he won Constantinople, I don't
fancy the Germans would find themselves stopped by them at this day.
'Tis true, the road is now made (with great industry) as commodious
as possible, for the march of the Turkish army; there is not one
ditch or puddle between this place and Belgrade, that has not a large
strong bridge of planks built over it; but the precipices are not so
terrible as I had heard them represented. At these mountains we lay
at the little village Kiskoi, wholly inhabited by Christians, as all
the peasants of Bulgaria are. Their houses are nothing but little
huts, raised of dirt baked in the sun; and they leave them and fly
into the mountains, some months before the march of the Turkish army,
who would else entirely ruin them, by driving away their whole
flocks. This precaution Secures them in a sort of plenty; for such
vast tracts of land lying in common, they have the liberty of sowing
what they please, and are generally very industrious husbandmen. I
drank here several sorts of delicious wine. The women dress
themselves in a great variety of coloured glass beads, and are not
ugly, but of a tawny complexion. I have now told you all that is
worth telling you, and perhaps more, relating to my journey. When I
am at Constantinople, I'll try to pick up some curiosities, and then
you shall hear again from Your's, &c.

LET. XXVIII

To THE COUNTESS or B----.

_Adrianople, April_ 1. O. S. 1717.

AS I never can forget the smallest of your ladyship's commands, my
first business here has been to enquire after the stuffs you ordered
me to look for, without being able to find what you would like. The
difference of the dress here and at London is so great, the same sort
of things are not proper for _caftans_ and _manteaus_. However, I
will not give over my search, but renew it