the people we have to
deal with in Africa. But could we not find similar extortion amongst the
innkeepers and the conductors of carriages on the highways of Europe?
That all the people are _soua soua_--"higgledy-piggledy" is our only
equivalent phrase--is bad news for a Saharan traveller; for it signifies
nothing less than that there is no paramount authority in a country, and
that the traveller is exposed to the insolence of every evil-disposed
person. Such is represented to be the condition of Tidek, the first
province of Aheer upon which we shall enter.
The scarcity of food in Aheer--one of the causes of the disturbances
that are taking place--arises, we are told, from the quantity of
provisions carried away from the country when the Kailouees made their
expedition against the Walad Suleiman. But this expedition is now
finished, and there has been time for a revival of prosperity. Sickness
and disease are reported in Aheer at the present time. These are
unpleasant tidings for a traveller who is braving the fatigues and
perils of the Great Sahara, in hopes of some little repose at his
journey's end.
To express great numbers, the Arabs and Tuaricks always use the
similitudes, "like the dust," or "like flies." When the Tuaricks say we
are to give nothing to anybody--speaking, of course, of other people, as
Hateetah to me--they take up a little sand between the ends of their
fingers and scatter it on the palms of their hands. When they wish to
describe roads free from hills and ravines they extend the palm of their
hands, adding, "Like this." I cannot say that I admire the Kailouees in
any respect. Barth's comparison to snakes is tolerably correct. They
have duped us in various ways, and our only consolation is being able to
report their conduct to their friends in Ghat and Zinder.
These observations occur to me during our prolonged halt at the well of
Falezlez. The whole caravan needs this refreshment, both on account of
the fatigues it has already encountered, as of those to which it may
look forward on the tract of desert which now stretches wild and
inhospitable before us. Yesterday the sky was completely overcast; but
during the night and this morning the clouds have been succeeded by
wind, and strong blasts have completely cooled us. I do not think that
the climate would affect me so much as it does if I had something good
to eat; but the Tanelkums have got with them all my soups. The Germans
eat hausa like
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