to attract my evening strolls. Every one
is now busy sowing ghaseb, and I passed a half hour in working with some
cheerful labourers at the preparation of the ground, smoothing the soil
in the squares for irrigation. They were amused at my voluntary
industry. I sleep now late of mornings after my evening exercise in the
gardens, and find myself the better for it.

Perhaps the first melons ever eaten at Mourzuk appeared on Mr.
Gagliuffi's table about this time; they were very good.

_12th._--The Germans were preparing to start early in the morning; they
are obliged to lighten everything, and reduce each camel load to two and
a-half, or even two cantars. The Tuaricks will not carry more; generally
their maharees are small, and they have few stray camels. The Germans
went off in good style and great spirits. They propose to accompany a
caravan of Tanelkum Tuaricks, who go by way of Aroukeen, leaving Ghat
far on the right. I was not able to persuade them to delay their
departure, so that we might all travel together: but it may be expected
that they will not find it so very easy or safe to get through this
country without the special protection of those who claim authority over
it.

Two or three days of gheblee succeeded--unpleasant weather to be out in
the desert. I found it bad enough at Mourzuk--100 deg. in the shade at four
o'clock in the afternoon. Hateetah was reported to be on the road; so I
determined to wait five or six days for him, and thus not deviate from
my original plan.

I went to visit the wife of Mohammed Es-Sfaxee, who goes with us to
Soudan as a merchant, carrying a considerable quantity of goods on
account of M. Gagliuffi: this gentleman accompanied me. The object of
our visit was to see whether the Sfaxee had left a sufficient quantity
of provisions with his wife to support her during his absence. It is
necessary to take such precautions with these Moors, who often
barbarously abandon their families, without any adequate provision, for
months and even for years together. We found that he had left dates,
wheat, and a little olive-oil and mutton-fat--the ordinary stock of all
families in Fezzan. Only a few rich people indulge in such luxuries as
coffee, sugar, meat, and liquid butter.

An Arab saying: "You must always put other people's things on your head,
and your own under your arm. Then, if there be danger of the things
falling off your head, you must raise your arm, and let fall your own
thin