time the whistle went
off--and it went off very often--he nearly did the same. The fireman
was obliged every other minute to whistle to frighten the cows away
from the track. We others were more fortunate, having only to balance
ourselves and clutch our neighbor. The least jar would have capsized us
all. The Chinamen working on the railroad gazed at us in wonder; but we
did not scoop any of them in, nor did we get any cows. The long tunnels
were nasty and damp, and we were glad to breathe the fresh air again
after having passed through them. After a ride of half an hour we got
off our cow-catcher at the next station, feeling rather proud of the
_bravoure_ we had shown, but, all the same, thankful to be safe and
sound.

Salt Lake City is such a pretty place, so beautifully situated. The
great mountains capped with snow surround it and send the clearest
mountain streams down through the streets. No town could be better
drained than this one.

The lake is eighty miles away, and salted to exaggeration. Out of four
quarts of water one can obtain one quart of salt. We thought of taking
a bath in it and being sent home pickled and cured--of traveling.

We met on the train a Colonel Hooker, citizen of Utah. He introduced
himself to us and gave us free passes on the railroad where the Mormon
line branches off; so he must be some one of importance.

He telegraphed to announce our arrival at the hotel, and we flattered
ourselves that all Mormondom would be agog. We did not, however, notice
any great animation as we drove up to the hotel, and felt rather hurt
that we did not create more of a sensation.

We had introductory letters to Brigham Young. The next day being
Sunday, we went to the Tabernacle to attend their religious service.
Happily, Brigham Young had returned the night before from St. Joseph,
where he had sojourned with the "faithful." The Tabernacle is an
enormous building which, we were told, can hold fourteen thousand
people. It was filled to overflowing. The seating for the members was
arranged in a semicircle of tiers, the minor elders sitting in the
lowest seats. As the tiers mounted there were fewer seats and therefore
fewer elders, and so on, until the highest point was reached, where the
high priest--Brigham Young--sat alone in his glory. On the opposite
side was the magnificent organ built in Boston. When they began
building the Tabernacle, gigantic as they intended it to be, they did
not know that the or