liss indeed.

Bernstorff is about an hour's drive from Copenhagen. When the open
landau appeared in the _porte-cochere_ the Queen got in; I sat on her
left and the lady of honor sat opposite. The Danish royal livery is a
bright red covered with braid. The coachman's coat has many red capes,
one on top of the other, looking like huge pen-wipers. J. had told me
it was not etiquette for any one driving with the Queen to bow. We
happened to pass J. walking with a friend of his, and it seemed odd
that I was obliged to cut him dead.

When people see the Queen's carriage coming they stop their own, and
the ladies get out on the sidewalk and make deep courtesies. Gentlemen
bow very low and stand holding their hats in their hands until the
royal carriage has passed.

The castle of Bernstorff is neither large nor imposing, but looks
home-like and comfortable. The Queen showed me all over it--her private
rooms, and even upstairs where her _atelier_ is; she paints
charmingly--as well as she plays the piano.

She pointed out on the window-panes of a room over the principal _salon_
different things that her daughters had written with their diamond
rings on the glass: "Farewell, my beautiful clouds!--Alexandra." "Till
the next time.--Dagmar." "_A bientot_--Willie" (the young King of
Greece).[1]

[1] King George of Greece who was assassinated in 1913.

She told me that Bernstorff was the first home she and the King had
lived in after their marriage, when he was Prince, and they love it so
much that they prefer it to the larger castles. They go to Fredensborg
in the autumn. The Grand-Duchess Dagmar and the Princess of Wales, when
they come to Bernstorff in the summer, sleep in the room which they
shared as children.

I cannot tell you how nice the royal family are to me.

We were present at a state ball at Christiansborg. On arriving we
passed up a magnificent staircase and went through many large _salons_,
the walls of which were covered with fine tapestries and old Spanish
leather, and a long gallery of beautiful pictures, before we reached
the _salon_ where I belonged according to my rank (every one is placed
according to the rules of the protocol).

Their Majesties entered. The Queen looked dazzlingly brilliant. She
wore all the crown jewels and had some splendid pearls on her neck. The
King looked superb in his uniform. They were followed by the Princess
Thyra (the young and sympathetic Princess with eyes like a ga