terer, the Kitat-Lama, and the Chabi, leaving old Akaye to take care
of the house. The flowers were arranged in the open air, before the
various Buddhist temples of the Lamasery, and displayed by illuminations
of the most dazzling brilliancy. Innumerable vases of brass and copper,
in the form of chalices, were placed upon slight frame-work, itself
representing various designs; and all these vases were filled with thick
butter, supporting a solid wick. The illuminations were arranged with a
taste that would have reflected no discredit on a Parisian decorator.

The appearance of the flowers themselves quite amazed us. We could never
have conceived that in these deserts, amongst a half savage people,
artists of such eminent merit could have been found. From the paintings
and sculptures we had seen in various Lamaseries, we had not in the
slightest degree been led to anticipate the exquisite finish which we had
occasion to admire in the butter works. The flowers were bas-reliefs, of
colossal proportions, representing various subjects taken from the
history of Buddhism. All the personages were invested with a truth of
expression that quite surprised us. The features were full of life and
animation, the attitudes natural, and the drapery easy and graceful. You
could distinguish at a glance the nature and quality of the materials
represented. The furs were especially good. The various skins of the
sheep, the tiger, the fox, the wolf, etc., were so admirably rendered,
that you felt inclined to go and feel them with the hand, and ascertain
whether, after all, they were not real. In each bas-relief you at once
recognised Buddha, his face, full of nobleness and majesty, appertained
to the Caucasian type; the artists conforming therein to the Buddhist
traditions, which relate that Buddha, a native of the Western Heaven, had
a complexion fair, and slightly tinged with red, broad, full eyes, a
large nose, and long, curling, soft hair. The other personages had all
the Mongol type, with the Thibetian, Chinese, Si-Fan, and Tartar
shadings, so nicely discriminated that, without any reference whatever to
the costume, you recognised at once to what particular tribe each
individual belonged. There were a few heads of Hindoos and negroes,
excellently represented. The latter excited a good deal of curiosity
among the spectators. These large bas-reliefs were surrounded with
frames, representing animals and flowers, all in butter,