company. We learned that, compelled to quit Lha-Ssa
for some knavery, he had vagabondized for three years through the
provinces of Sse-Tchouen and Kan-Sou, as a strolling player and
fortune-teller. We were not at all surprised at this information. We
had ourselves remarked that whenever Sandara became frankly himself, his
manner was always that of an actor.

One evening, when he seemed in a more amiable humour than ordinary, we
thought we would extract from him some of his old adventures. "Sandara,"
said we, "the chattering Lamas here pretend that on your way from Thibet,
you remained three years in China." "The words are truth." "They say,
too, that you are a capital hand at stage recitations." Sandara rose,
clacked a sort of prelude with his fingers, threw himself into a
theatrical attitude, and recited, with emphasis, some Chinese verses. "A
Lama comedian!" said we, laughingly; "this is a marvel indeed!" "No,
no!" cried he; "I was first a Lama, then a comedian, and now I am a Lama
again. Come," continued he, resuming his accustomed seat, "since the
chatterers have spoken to you of my adventures, I will give you the real
history of them.

"After remaining for ten years at Lha-Ssa, in the Lamasery of Sera, a
longing for my country took possession of my thoughts; the Three Vales
occupied my soul. The malady at length became so powerful, that I could
not resist it. I accordingly departed; having as my travelling
companions four Lamas of Amdo, who were also returning home. Instead of
pursuing the eastern route we proceeded southwards, for in that direction
the desert is not wholly uninhabited. We journeyed, pack on back, and
staff in hand. If on our way we came to a black tent, we sought its
hospitality, otherwise we had to pass the night in the depths of some
ravine, or beneath some rock. You know that Thibet is a country covered
with great mountains; we had accordingly a continuous series of
ascendings and descendings. Although it was summer, we frequently
encountered heavy falls of snow. The nights were very cold, but during
the day, especially in the valleys, we were almost killed with the heat.

"We walked on merrily, however. We were all in good health and in good
humour, more particularly when the shepherds had made us a present of a
kid, or a good lump of butter. In the country through which we passed,
we saw some very singular animals; they were not so big as an ordinary
cat, and they were c