[Picture: View of Na-Ptchu]

The caravans which repair to Lha-Ssa, are necessitated to remain several
days at Na-Ptchu, in order to arrange a fresh system of conveyance; for
the difficulties of an awfully rocky road do not permit camels to proceed
further. Our first business, therefore, was to sell our animals; but
they were so wretchedly worn that no one would look at them. At last, a
sort of veterinary surgeon, who, doubtless, had some recipe for restoring
their strength and appearances, made us an offer, and we sold him the
three for fifteen ounces of silver, throwing in the grilled one into the
bargain. These fifteen ounces of silver just sufficed to pay the hire of
six long-haired oxen, to carry our baggage to Lha-Ssa.

A second operation was to discharge the Lama of the Ratchico mountains.
After having settled with him on very liberal terms, we told him that if
he proposed to visit Lha-Ssa, he must find some other companions, for
that he might consider himself wholly freed from the engagements which he
had contracted with us; and so, at last, we got rid of this rascal, whose
misconduct had fully doubled the trouble and misery that we had
experienced on the way in his company.

Our conscience imposes upon us the duty of here warning persons whom any
circumstances may lead to Na-Ptchu, to be carefully on their guard there
against thieves. The inhabitants of this Thibetian village are
remarkable for their peculations, robbing every Mongol or other caravan
that comes to the place, in the most shameful manner. At night, they
creep into the travellers' tents, and carry off whatever they can lay
hands upon; and in broad day itself they exercise their deplorable
ingenuity in this line, with a coolness, a presence of mind, and an
ability which might arouse envy in the most distinguished Parisian
thieves.

After having laid in a supply of butter, tsamba, and legs of mutton, we
proceeded on our way to Lha-Ssa, from which we were now only distant
fifteen days' march. Our travelling companions were some Mongols of the
kingdom of Khartchin, who were repairing in pilgrimage to Mouhe-Dehot
(the Eternal Sanctuary) as the Tartars call Lha-Ssa, and who had with
them their Grand Chaberon; that is to say, a Living Buddha, the superior
of their Lamasery. This Chaberon was a young man of eighteen, whose
manners were agreeable and gentlemanly, and whose face, full of ingenuous
candour, contrasted singularly with the