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-Anger and jealousy--Friends--To the homes of the savages--Photography--Habitations Pp. 17-26 V A pilgrim from Mansarowar Lake--The spirits of the mountains--A safeguard against them--Tibetan encampments--The Rajiwar--A waterfall--Watermills Pp. 27-34 VI Highways and trade routes--The Darma route--The Dholi River--A rough track connecting two valleys--Glaciers--Three ranges and their peaks--Altitudes--_Darma, Johar_, and the _Painkhanda_ Parganas--The highest peak in the British Empire--Natural boundaries Pp. 35-40 VII The word _Bhot_ and its meaning--Tibetan influence--Tibetan abuses--The ever-helpful Chanden Sing--The first Shoka village--Chanden Sing in disgrace--Weaving-loom--Fabrics--All's well that ends well Pp. 41-45 VIII Prayers by wind-power--Photography under difficulties--A night of misery--Drying up--Two lady missionaries--Their valuable work--An interesting dinner party--An "eccentric" man's tea party Pp. 46-52 IX Discouraging reports--A steep ascent--How I came to deserve the name of "monkey"--Hard at work--Promoted in rank--Collapse in a gale of wind--Time and labour lost Pp. 53-56 X The _Nerpani_, or "waterless track"--Exaggerated accounts--A long shot--The rescue of two coolies--Picturesque Nature--An involuntary shower-bath--The _Chai_ Pass Pp. 57-62 XI A series of misfortunes--Tibetan atrocities on British subjects--Tibetan exactions--Revolting cruelty to one of her Majesty's subjects--Assault on a British officer--A smart British Envoy Pp. 63-68 XII Tibetan threats--My birthday--Ravenous dogs--A big dinner--Shoka hospitality Pp. 69-73 XIII Shoka hospitality--How I obtained much information--On a reconnoitring trip--A terrible slide Pp. 74-80 XIV A palaver--To see is to believe--Dangers and perils on the snow and ice--_Thar_ and _Ghural_--Stalking--A tiring climb to 16,000 feet--The collapse of a snow bridge Pp. 81-85 XV An earthquake--Curious notions of the natives--A Shoka tailor and his ways--The arrival of silver cash--Two rocks in the Kali--Arrogance of a Tibetan spy Pp. 86-91 XVI The _Rambang_--Shoka music--Love-songs--Doleful singing--Abrupt ending--Solos--Smoking--When marriage is contemplated--The _Delang_--Adultery--Punishment Pp. 92-97 XVII FUNERAL RITE
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