atics, going to or
returning from the sacred Mansarowar Lake in Tibet. The present
Rajiwar,[3] Pushkar Pal, belongs to the Ramchanda family, and he is a
descendant of the Solar dynasty. His ancestors lived in Aoudh or Ayodye
(as it was formerly called), whence they migrated to the hills of Katyur
in Kumaon, where they built a palace. The hill regions up to Killakanjia
and the Jumua River were under the Raja of Katyur's rule, he assuming the
title of Maharaja. A branch of the family came from Katyur to Askote, its
chief retaining the hereditary title of Rajiwar beside that of Pal, which
each male assumes. The Rajiwar pays a yearly tribute of 1800 rupees to
the Government of India. In the time of the Gourkhas he paid nothing
except occasional gifts of _Nafas_ or musk-deer to his neighbour the King
of Nepal, with whom he is still in very close relation. He was then
practically an independent king. Still Rajiwar Pushkar Pal has always
been perfectly loyal to the Government of India.

"Are the people very obsequious to the Rajiwar?" I asked of Jagat Sing
Pal.

"Yes, sir. For instance, when the Rajiwar sits on his _Karoka_ (a kind of
throne) he is saluted with a particularly respectful salaam. His subjects
bring their hand up to the forehead and support the elbow with the left
hand, as a sign that this salutation is so weighty that it requires the
support of the other hand."

At Court functions, the male relatives, friends, and servants sit near
the Rajiwar, his brother first, his son next, then his nephews, etc.
Women are of course not admitted, and although no strict code of
etiquette exists, the Rajiwar and his family are nevertheless always
treated with Eastern deference.

[2] _Daramsalla_, a stone-walled shelter for the use of travellers and
natives.

[3] _Rajiwar:_ head of kingdom.

CHAPTER IV

The Raots--A slippery journey--Superstitious notions--Anger and
jealousy--Friends--To the homes of the
savages--Photography--Habitations.

[Illustration: A YOUNG MAN]

WE had walked seventy-eight miles in three marches, and my men being
footsore, I gave them a day's rest, which I employed in going to the
haunts of the "Wild men of the forest," or _Raots_ or _Rajis_, as they
style themselves. They live in the woods several miles off, and to reach
them I had to descend a steep incline covered by an uncommonly slippery
carpet of dried grass and pine needles. I had to take off shoes and
stockings