Illnesses and remedies--Curious theories about fever--Evil
spirits--Blacksmith and dentist--Exorcisms--Surgical
operations--Massage and cupping--Incurable
illnesses--Deformities--Deafness--Fits and
insanity--Melancholia--Suicides Pp. 257-264

XLIX
A Tibetan medicine-man--Lumbago, and a startling cure for
it--Combustible fuses--Fire and butter--Prayers, agony and
distortions--Strange ideas on medicine Pp. 265-267

L
Tucker village--Chokdens--Houses--Flying prayers--Soldiers or
robbers?--A stampede--Fresh
provisions--Disappointment--Treachery--Shokas leave
me--Observations--Five men, all counted! Pp. 268-270

LI
The start with a further reduced party--A reconnaissance--Natural
fortress--Black tents and animals--On the wrong tack--Slings and
their use--A visit to a Tibetan camp--Mistaken for
brigands--Bargaining and begging Pp. 271-275

LII
What the men were like--Their timidity--Leather work--Metal
work--Blades and swords--Filigree--Saddles and harness--Pack saddles
Pp. 276-279

LIII
Rain in torrents--A miserable night--A gorge--A gigantic
inscription--Sheltered under boulders--A fresh surprise--Only two
followers left Pp. 280-282

LIV
My time fully occupied--Our own yak drivers--A heavy blow--Along the
stream--Soldiers in pursuit of us--Discovered Pp. 283-286

LV
An interview--Peace or war?--Gifts and the scarf of friendship--The
_Kata_--The end of a friendly visit Pp. 287-289

LVI
Rain in torrents--A swampy plain--The sun at last--Our yaks stolen
and recovered Pp. 290-294

LVII
Travelling Tibetans--Over a high pass--A friendly meeting--A
proffered banquet--Ascent to 20,000 feet--Looking for the Gunkyo
Lake--Surprised by a phantom army Pp. 295-297

LVIII
A sleepless night--Watching our enemy--A picturesque sight--A
messenger--Soldiers from Lhassa--Taken for a Kashmeree--The Gunkyo
Lake Pp. 298-301

LIX
In pleasant company--Unpopularity of the Lamas--Soldiers--Towards
the Maium Pass--Grass--Threats--Puzzled Tibetans--The Maium
Pass--Obos Pp. 302-305

LX
The Maium Pass--Into the Yutzang province--Its capital--The Doktol
province--Orders disregarded--The sources of the Brahmaputra--Change
in the climate--The valley of the Brahmaputra--Running risks Pp.
306-308

LXI
Expecting trouble--Along