was the
celebrated crewel work, of which there is no fault to be found in the
execution and design of its higher grades, but which, like all fancy
work that becomes the rage and is cheapened and multiplied without any
regard to reason, degenerated to the most impossible designs and the
worst execution attainable. Thus crewel work passed away, and though the
best kinds are still to be met with, it is really superseded in modern
drawing-rooms by embroideries all originating in the present desire
after Oriental colouring and design, but of kinds distinctly
characteristic and individual.

The work known as Leek embroidery recommends itself in many ways, it
being very reasonable in price, easily executed, and extremely rich and
handsome when finished. The foundation is Tussore silk, specially made
with the pattern to be embroidered upon it printed upon the foundation,
during its manufacture, and therefore indelible. The colouring of the
foundation is either cream, straw, pink, blue, green, or terra-cotta,
and the pattern is not printed in outline only, but filled up with
indications guiding the arrangement for the centres of flowers, veins of
leaves, and other distinguishing marks. To work the embroidery it is
necessary to line the Tussore with fine unbleached muslin, and to work
with Tussore silk and Japanese gold thread. The Tussore silk costs 1d.
the skein, and is dyed in every shade of Oriental colouring. Three to
four shades of a colour are used to work in a flower, and two shades of
green for the leaves. The stitch is crewel-stitch worked very close. No
shading about each leaf is necessary, but different greens are used for
different leaves, and thus a variety of colouring is attained without
trouble. Every part of the pattern, the bordering included, is worked,
and only the foundation left, showing where it forms the background to
the design. The gold thread is laid on as the finishing touch. It is
placed round all the chief parts of the design, and sewn on as an edging
with a couching stitch; that is to say, the gold thread is held tightly
stretched in its position with the left hand, while a stitch brought
from the back of the material is passed over it and put down to the back
again with the right hand. Lines of gold are used to mark out the border
pattern, and are fastened down with the couching stitch. When sewing on
the gold it is very important to keep it tightly stretched, as if put on
loosely it is not effect