it is
better to accumulate all the oddments of ribbons, plush, velvet, silk,
and satin lying in the piece-drawer from dress trimmings or sent as
patterns from shops. The more plush and velvet obtainable, the greater
the effect produced, while the colouring should be of a vivid tone, but
excluding the bright aniline dyes already once referred to as being
unsuitable to blend with other shades. A strong piece of ticking is
required for the foundation, and on this the pieces are arranged. They
should be pinned on while the amalgamation of colouring is being tried,
and, when that is settled, basted on to the lining, the edges of soft
materials being turned under and secured with the basting lines.
Similarity in shape and size is to be avoided when placing the pieces,
and the effect aimed at that of the colouring of a kaleidoscope in its
variety and brightness. In order to obtain queer shapes and corners, it
is not necessary to carefully cut them out and fit them into their
various spaces; in fact, it is better not to do so, but to lay one
material partly over another, and by so doing make the desired form. The
embroidery is generally left until the pieces are basted down to the
lining, but now and again the scraps should be embroidered before they
are fixed down, this method being the least troublesome when fine silk
work is attempted, such as working flowers in shades of colour or
intricate designs, or following out the lines of stamped velvet or
brocade with couched-down cords and gold thread. Thin Oriental silks
require a thin muslin lining underneath them, and the embroidery
executed before they are tacked to the ticking, as unless this
precaution is taken they are apt to pucker and look uneven and poor.
When the patchwork scraps are all arranged, spare strands of filoselle
of any shades are used to cover over the basting threads with lines of
coral stitch, feather, chain, rope, and herringbone, while oddments of
silk cord, Japanese gold thread, very fine braids, etc., are sewn down
either as borderings to the securing lines or as forming designs and
figures on the patches themselves. Embroidery stitches of all kinds are
used to fill in the centres of the patches, and advantage is always
taken of any pattern on the patches either by filling it in entirely
with shaded silks, filling up its background with stars, crosses, or
dots, or by enclosing it within diagonal lines, or sewing spangles down
so as to cover it over. Eve