decoration. At shoulder,
elbow, breast, edge of a flattened cap, the knees, cut just where a
devotee of comfort might cut them to give more freedom of movement.
The slash forms an unrivalled opportunity for displays of color. Deep
blue, parting to display a glimpse of amber, white through black, the
combinations are endless, and the whole gives the idea of a glimpse of
an undergarment through an outer one. The contrast of a lining of
vest, sleeve or panel is also a harmonious ornament.

Decollete Costume.

It is not the province of this work to decide the vexed question of
the low-cut bodice for full dress. In this respect every woman will be
a law unto herself, and every woman knows in her own mind the border
line below which the corsage should not fall. All, however, do not
know how greatly the hard, horizontal line of the low-cut bodice
diminishes the appearance of height. Herein lies the great advantage
of the heart or square-shaped opening showing the throat, since a
dress high behind, or on the shoulders, gives all the height. Last,
but not least, all the lovely curves of the throat are shown in this
way, and any suspicion of angularity of the collar bone is hidden.

A dress should never end directly upon the skin. The line of contact
should always be softened by an edge of lace, tulle, or ruching.
First, for the idea of cleanliness; second, because "nature abhors
sharp edges." In flowers there are contrasts of color, but they are
always softened, each shade stealing a little from the other as they
blend.

A regularly _decollete_ gown is properly worn only during the same
hours that a gentleman's dress suit is donned, that is, "from dusk to
dawn."

Sharp edges should be avoided as much as possible in the entire
costume. A glove that ends exactly at the wrist bone, or a boot at the
ankle joint, with a straight line, is always ugly; so are dresses when
they are cut in a circle close to the juncture of the neck with the
shoulder, giving the neck a decapitated appearance. The line of
contrast should always be softened with an edge of lace, or a
necklace, and only round, pretty throats should dare such a display.

The skirt ought to appear, even if it is not, as a portion and a
continuance of the bodice. That is, "if the bodice be cut to fit the
figure tightly, the skirt ought properly to be plainly gored. If the
bodice be full at the waist line, the skirt also should contain
fullness, for this form signifies