ly youthful
style of dress long after the passing of youth, instead of adding to
the apparent youth of the wearer, simply defeats its own end by
exaggerating the defects it was meant to conceal.
Small, thin women should not wear too much black. Let them wear a
profusion of fluffy laces about the throat; soft, puffy vests, or, as
one writer observes, "learn something from Sara Bernhardt and her
consummate skill in concealing bones."
Short, stout women should see that all adornments, such as folds,
plaits, etc., keep as much as possible in perpendicular lines. It is a
mistake to think that perfect plainness will disguise the breadth, it
rather emphasizes it. On this style of woman a loosely-fitted wrap has
a better effect for the street than a tight, plain garment.
Common-Sense Sleeves.
A very stout or a very thin woman should never wear extremely light
sleeves, no matter what the style may be. The stout woman should also
avoid an elbow sleeve with loosely falling ruffles, and the trimming,
if possible, should run in lengthwise folds or bands. This precaution
tends to decrease the apparent size of the arm. The slender woman, on
the contrary, is much improved by the puffed elbow sleeve ending with
a fall of lace.
Let women learn to put on belts so that they will slip downward in
front and up in the back. This does everything for the waist in making
it look slender and graceful. If yokes are worn, it is well to
remember that a deep yoke is more becoming than a narrow one. If it is
short in front, it looks awkward, and if it is short behind, it gives
a round shouldered effect.
Where a rich toilet is worn for any occasion, be sure that everything
is in keeping. If the gown be of velvet do not wear with it a linen
collar or cheap lace. If real lace is beyond the means there are
always the filmy tulles and _crepe lisse_. If jewelry is worn, it
should be of the best, be it much or little. The fan, also, for such a
costume should carry out the idea of luxury.
Cheap, fanciful, pretty things have their place in connection with
soft wool, or pretty cotton costumes, but "lightness or grace is one
thing; magnificence or luxury, another."
A very young girl should never wear rich, heavy fabrics; they are
unsuited to her youthful face and ways.
The evils of tight lacing are so pronounced that it would seem almost
unnecessary to remonstrate against them in this age of enlightenment,
were they not so continually forc
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