ould not woman
to-day clothed in close-fitting garments of silk or woollen fabric,
with an outer robe or loose dress fashioned something after the order
of the ancient Grecian or Roman pattern, be far more beautiful than
she is as a slave to fashion's fickle fancy, while the requirements of
life, health, and comfort would be fully met? Again, let us compare
one of the plates of the sixties with its wonderful expanse of skirt
to the simple, graceful attire of Miss Marlowe as Viola in the
"Twelfth Night," and laying aside all preconceived opinions (with the
influence which we have seen the unusual plays in fashioning our ideas
of propriety,) does not our reason and common sense sustain the view
that the latter is far more refined, simple, and less vulgarly
ostentatious than the inflated garment of the early sixties? Or if we
compare the pictures of Modjeska and Miss Marlowe in Shakespearian
roles, or that of the former in the neat and graceful gathered gown,
and Miss Mather in the simple peasant dress, are they not one and all
far more chaste, artistic, sensible, and healthful than the
hoop-skirt, bustle, and train, or the tie-back? Do not, however,
understand that I advocate the introduction of any of these costumes.
It is for woman and woman alone to decide what she will wear, and in
this paper I am merely seeking to second the splendid work that has by
her been inaugurated, and by speaking as one of the younger men of
this decade, to voice what I believe American womanhood will find to
be the sentiment of the rising generation, whenever she makes a
concerted effort to emancipate herself from the slavery of Parisian
fashions. There are many evidences that the hour is ripe for a
sensible revolt, and that if the movement is guided by wise and
judicious minds it will be a success. Two things seem to me to be of
paramount importance.

[Illustration: _From copyrighted photo by Falk, N. Y._ JULIA MARLOWE.]

[Illustration: HELENA MODJESKA.]

[Illustration: MARGARET MATHER.]

[Illustration: HELENA MODJESKA.]

(1.) The commission of women acting for the Council should decide
definitely upon the nature and extent of changes desired. The ideal
costume should be clearly defined and ever present in their mind. But
it would be exceedingly unwise to attempt any radical change at once.
This has been more than anything the secret of the partial or total
failures of the movements of this character in the past. The changes
should b