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the weather could do to us now. MOISTURE, A TRACE Last fall I revisited Arizona for the first time in many years. My ultimate destination lay one hundred and twenty-eight miles south of the railroad. As I stepped off the Pullman I drew deep the crisp, thin air; I looked across immeasurable distance to tiny, brittle, gilded buttes; I glanced up and down a ramshackle row of wooden buildings with crazy wooden awnings, and I sighed contentedly. Same good old Arizona. The Overland pulled out, flirting its tail at me contemptuously. A small, battered-looking car, grayed and caked with white alkali dust, glided alongside, and from under its swaying and disreputable top emerged someone I knew. Not individually. But by many campfires of the past I had foregathered with him and his kind. Same old Arizona, I repeated to myself. This person bore down upon me and gently extracted my bag from my grasp. He stood about six feet three; his face was long and brown and grave; his figure was spare and strong. Atop his head he wore the sacred Arizona high-crowned hat, around his neck a bright bandana; no coat, but an unbuttoned vest; skinny trousers, and boots. Save for lack of spurs and _chaps_ and revolver he might have been a moving-picture cowboy. The spurs alone were lacking from the picture of a real one. He deposited my bag in the tonneau, urged me into a front seat, and crowded himself behind the wheel. The effect was that of a grown-up in a go-cart. This particular brand of tin car had not been built for this particular size of man. His knees were hunched up either side the steering column; his huge, strong brown hands grasped most competently that toy-like wheel. The peak of his sombrero missed the wrinkled top only because he sat on his spine. I reflected that he must have been drafted into this job, and I admired his courage in undertaking to double up like that even for a short journey. "Roads good?" I asked the usual question as I slammed shut the door. "Fair, suh," he replied, soberly. "What time should we get in?" I inquired. "Long 'bout six o'clock, suh," he informed me. It was then eight in the morning--one hundred and twenty-eight miles--ten hours--roads good, eh?--hum. He touched the starter. The motor exploded with a bang. We moved. I looked her over. On the running board were strapped two big galvanized tanks of water. It was almost distressingly evident that the muffler had either bee
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