fortunately come to
stay, the old will never return. It is of the old, and its charm and
leisure, that I wish to write.

CHAPTER II

THE OLD WEST

I went to the ranch many years ago, stepping from the train somewhere
near midnight into a cold, crisp air full of stars. My knowledge of
California was at that time confined to several seasons spent on the
coast, where the straw hat retires only in deference to a tradition
which none of the flowers seem bound to respect. As my dress accorded
with this experience, I was very glad to be conducted across the street
to a little hotel. My guide was an elderly, very brown man, with a white
moustache, and the bearing of an army regular. This latter surmise later
proved correct. Manning was one of the numerous old soldiers who had
fought through the General's Apache campaigns, and who now in his age
had drifted back to be near his old commander. He left me, after many
solicitations as to my comfort, and a promise to be back with the team
at seven o'clock sharp.

Promptly at that hour he drew up by the curb. My kit bag was piled
aboard, and I clambered in beside the driver. Manning touched his team.
We were off.

The rig was of the sort usual to the better California ranches of the
day, and so, perhaps, worth description. It might best be defined as a
rather wide, stiff buckboard set on springs, and supported by stout
running gear. The single seat was set well forward, while the body of
the rig extended back to receive the light freight an errand to town
was sure to accumulate. An ample hood top of gray canvas could be raised
for protection against either sun, wind, or rain. Most powerful brakes
could be manipulated by a thrust of the driver's foot. You may be sure
they were outside brakes. Inside brakes were then considered the weak
expedients of a tourist driving mercenary. Generally the tongue and
moving gear were painted cream; and the body of the vehicle dark green.

This substantial, practical, and business-like vehicle was drawn by a
pair of mighty good bright bay horses, straight backed, square rumped,
deep shouldered, with fine heads, small ears, and alert yet gentle eyes
of high-bred stock. When the word was given, they fell into a steady,
swinging trot. One felt instinctively the power of it, and knew that
they were capable of keeping up this same gait all day. And that would
mean many miles. Their harness was of plain russet leather, neat and
well oiled.