I thought the music sounded well. The Circus of Maxentius, fifteen
hundred feet long and two hundred and sixty feet wide, is near the
Catacombs, as is also the tomb of Caecilla Metella, which is said to
have been erected more than nineteen hundred years ago. It is probably
as much as two miles from the city walls, and I walked on a little way
and could see other ruins still farther in the distance, but I turned
back toward the hotel, and some time after sundown found myself walking
along the banks of the yellow Tiber in the old city. Two days of
sight-seeing had been well spent in and around the former capital of the
world, and I was ready to go on to Naples the next day.

There is a saying, "See Naples and die," but I did not feel like
expiring when I beheld it, although it is very beautifully located. The
ruins of Pompeii, a few miles distant, had more interest for me than
Naples. I went out there on the tenth of September, which I recollect as
a very hot day. Pompeii, a kind of a summer resort for the Roman
aristocracy, was founded 600 B.C. and destroyed by an eruption of Mt.
Vesuvius in A.D. 79. It was covered with ashes from the volcano, and
part of the population perished. The site of the city was lost, but was
found after the lapse of centuries and the Italian Government began the
excavations in 1860. Some of the old stone-paved streets, showing the
ruts made by chariot wheels that ceased to roll centuries ago, have been
laid bare. Portions of the houses are still standing, and the stone
drinking fountains along the streets are yet to be seen, as are also the
stepping stones at the crossings, which are higher than the blocks used
in paving. Some of the walls still contain very clear paintings, some of
which are not at all commendable, and others are positively lewd. One
picture represented a wild boar, a deer, a lion, a rabbit, some birds,
and a female (almost nude) playing a harp. There was also a very clear
picture of a bird and some cherries. At one place in the ruins I saw a
well-executed picture of a chained dog in mosaic work. It is remarkable
how well preserved some things are here. In the Museum are petrified
bodies in the positions they occupied when sudden and unexpected
destruction was poured upon them, well nigh two thousand years ago. Some
appear to have died in great agony, but one has a peaceful position.
Perhaps this victim was asleep when the death angel came. I saw the
petrified remains of a dog