affects prices, and what are the means of detecting it.
Shoddy is considered a legitimate adulteration in woolen and worsted
goods. The following adulterations are not legitimate unless sold as
such:

1. Cotton combed with wool.

2. Thin cotton threads twisted in with worsted during the process of
drawing.

3. Cotton threads of the same color as the wool or worsted used as
filling or warp.

4. Cotton veneered with wool.

5. Cotton threads of the same color as wool used in weaving.

FOOTNOTE:

[14] Tentering is carried on in the English mills.

CHAPTER VIII

WOOLEN AND WORSTED FABRICS[15]

=Albatross.= A dress fabric of worsted warp and worsted filling; of
open texture and fancy weaves.

=Alpaca.= A thin fabric of close texture made from the fibers of an
animal of the llama species; mixed with silk or with cotton. It is
usually woven with cotton warp and mohair filling. Imitations of all
cotton are manufactured and sold under this name.

=Corded Alpaca.= Corded weave, lengthwise of the piece, cotton warp
alpaca filling; one of the first products of the American loom.

=Angora.= The fiber of this goat is commercially known as mohair. The
skins are largely used in the making of children's muffs, for the
scalps of dolls, and for trimming coats and capes. Carriage robes also
claim a good share of the skins; the hair, being nearly one foot in
length, makes them beautiful and serviceable. The fiber enters largely
into that class of goods known as Astrakhan, Crepons, Plushes,
Brilliantines, Zibelines, fine Cashmeres, and many other fabrics
usually sold as all wool or worsted, according to the mode of
preparing the stock before spinning into yarn. It is found in the
finest of silk and worsted fabrics for ladies' wear, also in linings,
mittens, and fine cloaking and overcoating. It is noted especially for
its water repelling qualities, its beauty, and high luster; and not so
much for its warmth-retaining properties, for which wool stands
unequalled.

=Astrakhan.= A fabric manufactured from Astrakhan fiber; of a curly,
wavy surface applied to a curly faced cloth resembling Astrakhan
fleece.

=Bandanna.= From the Indian _bandanna_, to bind or tie. In dyeing, the
cloth is tied in knots when dipped, and thus has a clouded effect.

=Beaver.= A heavy cloth manufactured of fine wool, with a finish on
the surface to resemble the fur of the animal by that name.

=Fur Beaver.= Similar in many respects to B