for it.
We saw a few sea-birds, specially some 'steamer-ducks,' so called from
their peculiar mode of progression through the water. They neither
swim nor fly, but use their wings like the paddles of a steamer, with
a great noise and splutter, and go along very fast. On reaching the
plains we had an opportunity of testing the speed of our horses, which
warmed us up a little after our slow progress by the water's edge in
the bitter wind. We rode all round the stockades, outside the town,
before dismounting; but I saw nothing of special interest. Before the
party broke up, arrangements were made for us to go to morrow to one
of the Government corrals, to see the cattle lassoed and branded--an
operation which is always performed twice a year.
We reached the yacht again at half-past five. Dr. Fenton came on board
to dinner, and from him we heard a great deal about the colony, the
Patagonians or Horse Indians, and the Fuegians or Canoe Indians. The
former inhabit, or rather roam over, a vast tract of country. They are
almost constantly on horseback, and their only shelter consists of
toldos, or tents, made of the skins of the old guanacos, stretched
across a few poles. They are tall and strong, averaging six feet in
height, and are bulky in proportion; but their size is nothing like so
great as old travellers have represented. Both men and women wear a
long flowing mantle of skins, reaching from the waist to the ankle,
with a large loose piece hanging down on one side, ready to be thrown
over their heads whenever necessary, which is fastened by a large flat
pin hammered out either from the rough silver or from a dollar. This,
their sole garment, has the effect of adding greatly in appearance to
their height. They never wash, but daub their bodies with paint and
grease, especially the women. Their only weapons are knives and bolas,
the latter of which they throw with unerring precision. During their
visits to the Sandy Point settlement their arms are always taken from
them, for they are extremely quarrelsome, particularly when drunk.
Nobody has been able to ascertain that they possess any form of sacred
belief, or that they perform any religious ceremonies. Their food
consists principally of the flesh of mares, troops of which animals
always accompany them on their excursions. They also eat
ostrich-flesh, which is considered a great delicacy, as well as the
fish the women catch, and the birds' eggs they find. Vegetable fo
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