d that the Keizersgracht and
Heerengracht do not divulge their secrets; they present an impassive
and inscrutable front, grave and sombre, often black as night, beyond
which the foreigner may not penetrate. But by the courtesy of the
descendants of Rembrandt's friend Jan Six, in order that pleasure in
their collection of the old masters may be shared, No. 511 Heerengracht
is shown on the presentation of a visiting card at suitable hours. Here
may be seen two more of the rare pictures of Vermeer of Delft--his
famous "Milk Woman" and a Dutch facade in the manner of Peter de Hooch,
with an added touch of grave delicacy and distinction. Peter de Hooch
is himself represented in this little gallery, but the picture is in
bad condition. There is also an interesting and uncharacteristically
dramatic Nicolas Maes called "The Listener". But the pride of the
house is the little group of portraits by Rembrandt.

It was, by the way, at Burgomaster Six's house at Elsbroek
that Rembrandt's little etching called "Six's Bridge" was
executed. Rembrandt and his friend had just sat down to dinner when
it was discovered that there was no mustard. On a servant being sent
to buy or borrow some, Rembrandt made a bet that he would complete
an etching of the bridge before the man's return. The artist won.

Another little private collection, which has now become a regular
resort, with fixed hours, is that known as the Fodor Museum, at
No. 609 Keizersgracht; but I do not recommend a visit unless one is
absolutely a glutton for paint.

Chapter XII

Around Amsterdam: South and South-East

Dutch railways--Amsterdam as a centre--Town
and country--Milking time--Scotch scenery in
Holland--Hilversum--Laren--Anton Mauve--Buckwheat Sunday--Dress
in Holland--Naarden's hour of agony--The indomitable
Dutch--_Through Noord-Holland_ again--Muiderberg--Muiden's
Castle.

The Dutch have several things to learn from the English; and there are
certain lessons which we might acquire from them. To them we might
impart the uses of the salt-spoon, and ask in return the secret of
punctuality on the railways.

The Dutch railways are admirable. The trains come in to the minute and
go out to the minute. The officials are intelligent and polite. The
carriages are good. Every station has its waiting-room, where you
may sit and read, and drink a cup of coffee that is not only hot and
fresh but is recognisably the product of the berry. It i