city outside is unheard here: Iyeyasu himself, in
the mountains of Nikko, has no quieter resting-place than his
descendants in the heart of the city over which they ruled.

Besides the graves of the Shoguns, Zojoji contains other lesser
shrines, in which are buried the wives of the second, sixth, and
eleventh Shoguns, and the father of Iyenobu, the sixth Shogun, who
succeeded to the office by adoption. There is also a holy place
called the Satsuma Temple, which has a special interest; in it is a
tablet in honour of Tadayoshi, the fifth son of Iyeyasu, whose title
was Matsudaira Satsuma no Kami, and who died young. At his death, five
of his retainers, with one Ogasasawara Kemmotsu at their head,
disembowelled themselves, that they might follow their young master
into the next world. They were buried in this place; and I believe
that this is the last instance on record of the ancient Japanese
custom of _Junshi_, that is to say, "dying with the master."

There are, during the year, several great festivals which are
specially celebrated at Zojoji; the chief of these are the Kaisanki,
or founder's day, which is on the eighteenth day of the seventh month;
the twenty-fifth day of the first month, the anniversary of the death
of the monk Honen, the founder of the Jodo sect of Buddhism (that to
which the temple belongs); the anniversary of the death of Buddha, on
the fifteenth of the second month; the birthday of Buddha, on the
eighth day of the fourth month; and from the sixth to the fifteenth of
the tenth month.

At Uyeno is the second of the burial-grounds of the Shoguns. The
Temple To-yei-zan, which stood in the grounds of Uyeno, was built by
Iyemitsu, the third of the Shoguns of the house of Tokugawa, in the
year 1625, in honour of Yakushi Niorai, the Buddhist AEsculapius. It
faces the Ki-mon, or Devil's Gate, of the castle, and was erected upon
the model of the temple of Hi-yei-zan, one of the most famous of the
holy places of Kiyoto. Having founded the temple, the next care of
Iyemitsu was to pray that Morizumi, the second son of the retired
emperor, should come and reside there; and from that time until 1868,
the temple was always presided over by a Miya, or member of the
Mikado's family, who was specially charged with the care of the tomb
of Iyeyasu at Nikko, and whose position was that of an ecclesiastical
chief or primate over the east of Japan.

The temples in Yedo are not to be compared in point of beauty with