tage-managed the mob better than
did the Athens police.

Athens is in a perplexed state of mind. She does not know if she wants
to go to war or wants peace. She does not know if she should go to war,
on which side she wants to fight. People tell you frankly that their
heart-beats are with France, but that they are afraid of Germany.

"If Germany wins," they asked, "what will become of us? The Germans
already are in Monastir, twenty miles from our border. They have driven
the Serbians, the French, and the British out of Serbia, and they will
make our King a German vassal."

"Then, why don't you go out and fight for your King?" I asked.

"He won't let us," they said.

When the army of a country is mobilized, it is hard to understand that
that country is neutral. You expect to see evidences of her partisanship
for one cause or the other. But in Athens, from a shop-window point of
view, both the Allies and the Germans are equally supported. There are
just as many pictures of the German generals as of Joffre, as many
post-cards of the German Emperor as of King George and King Albert.
After Paris, it is a shock to see German books, portraits of German
statesmen, composers, and musicians. In one shop-window conspicuously
featured, evidently with intent, is an engraving showing Napoleon III
surrendering to Bismarck. In the principal bookstore, books in German
on German victories, and English and French pamphlets on German
atrocities stand shoulder to shoulder. The choice is with you.

Meanwhile, on every hand are the signs of a nation on the brink of war;
of armies of men withdrawn from trades, professions, homes; of men
marching and drilling in squads, companies, brigades. At times the
columns are so long that in passing the windows of the hotel they take
an hour. All these fighting men must be fed, clothed, paid, and while
they are waiting to fight, whether they are goatherds or piano-tuners or
shopkeepers, their business is going to the devil.

CHAPTER VI

WITH THE ALLIES IN SALONIKA

SALONIKA, December, 1915.

We left Athens on the first ship that was listed for Salonika. She was
a strange ship. During many years on various vessels in various seas,
she was the most remarkable. Every Greek loves to gamble; but for some
reason, or for that very reason, for him to gamble on shore is by law
made difficult. In consequence, as soon as the _Hermoupolis_ raised
anchor