d above it were ribs to support a canvas top, and by clinging
to these, as at home on the Elevated we hang to a strap, we managed to
avoid being bumped out into the road.

The English captain, who seemed to have nothing else on his hands,
volunteered to act as our escort, and on a splendid hunter galloped
ahead of and at the side of the lorry, and, much like a conductor on
a sight-seeing car, pointed out the objects of interest. When not
explaining he was absent-mindedly jumping his horse over swollen
streams, ravines, and fallen walls. We found him much more interesting
to watch than the scenery.

The scenery was desolate and bleak. It consisted of hills that opened
into other hills, from the summit of which more hills stretched to a
horizon entirely of mountains. They did not form ridges but, like men
in a crowd, shouldered into one another. They were of a soft rock and
covered with snow, above which to the height of your waist rose scrub
pine-trees and bushes of holly. The rain and snow that ran down their
slopes had turned the land into a sea of mud, and had swamped the stone
roads. In walking, for each step you took forward you skidded and slid
several yards back. If you had an hour to spare you had time for a
ten-minute walk.

In our motor-truck we circled Lake Doiran, and a mile from the station
came to a stone obelisk. When we passed it our guide on horseback
shouted to us that we had crossed the boundary from Greece, and were now
in Serbia. The lake is five miles wide and landlocked, and the road kept
close to the water's edge. It led us through little mud villages with
houses of mud and wattle, and some of stone with tiled roofs and
rafters, and beams showing through the cement. The second story
projected like those of the Spanish blockhouses in Cuba, and the log
forts from which, in the days when there were no hyphenated Americans,
our forefathers fought the Indians.

[Illustration: _From a photograph copyright by Medem Photo Service._

"Hills bare of trees, from which the snow that ran down their slopes
had turned the road into a sea of mud."]

Except for some fishermen, the Serbians had abandoned these villages,
and they were occupied by English army service men and infantry. The
"front," which was hidden away among the jumble of hills, seemed, when
we reached it, to consist entirely of artillery. All along the road the
Tommies were waging a hopeless war against the mud, shovelling it off
the ston