urants were never aired, never swept,
never empty. The dishes were seldom washed; the waiters--never. People
succeeded each other at table in relays, one group giving their order
while the other was paying the bill. To prepare a table, a waiter with a
napkin swept everything on it to the floor. War prices prevailed. Even
the necessities of life were taxed. For a sixpenny tin of English pipe
tobacco I paid two dollars, and Scotch whiskey rose from four francs a
bottle to fifteen. On even a letter of credit it was next to impossible
to obtain money, and the man who arrived without money in his belt
walked the water-front. The refugees from Serbia who were glad they had
escaped with their lives were able to sleep and eat only through the
charity of others. Not only the peasants, but young girls and women of
the rich, and more carefully nurtured class of Serbians were glad to
sleep on the ground under tents.

The scenes in the streets presented the most curious contrasts. It
was the East clashing with the West, and the uniforms of four
armies--British, French, Greek, and Serbian--and of the navies of Italy,
Russia, Greece, England, and France contrasted with the dress of
civilians of every nation. There were the officers of Greece and Serbia
in smart uniforms of many colors--blue, green, gray--with much gold and
silver braid, and wearing swords which in this war are obsolete; there
were English officers, generals of many wars, and red-cheeked boys from
Eton, clad in businesslike khaki, with huge, cape-like collars of red
fox or wolf skin, and carrying, in place of the sword, a hunting-crop or
a walking-stick; there were English bluejackets and marines, Scotch
Highlanders, who were as much intrigued over the petticoats of the
Evzones as were the Greeks astonished at their bare legs; there were
French _poilus_ wearing the steel casque, French aviators in short,
shaggy fur coats that gave them the look of a grizzly bear balancing on
his hind legs; there were Jews in gabardines, old men with the noble
faces of Sargent's apostles, robed exactly as was Irving as Shylock;
there were the Jewish married women in sleeveless cloaks of green silk
trimmed with rich fur, and each wearing on her head a cushion of green
that hung below her shoulders; there were Greek priests with matted
hair reaching to the waist, and Turkish women, their faces hidden in
yashmaks, who looked through them with horror, or envy, at the English,
Scotch, and Am