hose
of the first and second and those of the third and fourth rows, etc.,
are thrown together and in many cases it will pay to have a pair of
narrow horizontal strips or wires nearly 18 inches from the ground upon
which they can be thrown.
This arrangement of the plants allows us to continue to cultivate the
wider spaces between the second and third and fourth and fifth, etc.,
rows, much longer, and tends to confine the necessary tramping and
packing of the soil when gathering the fruit chiefly to these rows--an
important point in case the soil is wet. The rows can be marked out the
day before, but it is better to set the plants in the cross-rows and
that these be marked out just ahead of the setters. In this arrangement
the distances are equivalent to from 2-1/2x4 feet, requiring 4,300
plants to the acre, to 4x5 feet, requiring but about 2,100 plants. The
latter distance is that most commonly used by New Jersey growers.
[Illustration: FIG. 19--TOMATOES SOWN AND ALLOWED TO GROW IN HOTBEDS]
=In the home garden.=--It will usually be more satisfactory to give each
plant plenty of space, setting them 5 or 6 feet apart each way, except
in the case of the dwarf sorts, which should be from 3-1/2 to 3 feet
apart. A few plants at these distances will usually be much more
satisfactory than more set nearer together, but the larger growing
sorts should have at least 3 feet and the dwarf sorts 2 feet. When one
has a hotbed or cold-frame it is often an advantage to set a row of
tomato plants nearly 18 inches apart at the back end much earlier than
they could be safely set in the open ground, and if these are allowed to
grow on in place, as shown in Fig. 19, being pruned and tied to stakes,
they will give some very early fruit.
=In the greenhouse.=--Experience and practice differ as to the most
desirable distance apart for plants under glass. But 2 feet apart, where
quality is the main consideration, and 18 inches when quantity, if fair,
is of more importance than extra quality.
=Setting plants in the field.=--The economical and successful setting of
plants in the field is an important element of successful tomato culture
and is very dependent upon soil and weather conditions. It is assumed
that the soil of the field has been put into the best possible condition
of tilth, but its condition as to moisture is also very important. The
worst condition is when it is wet and muddy, especially if it is at all
clayey--not only is t
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