such it can be called, the airiness of
which to the eye of fancy, looked like the mist of incense, undulating
over a display of beauty and symmetry, only to be rivalled by those
exquisite models of grecian taste which first furnished them with these
new ideas of personal decoration.

The French ladies every morning anoint their heads with the antique oil,
scented; their sidelocks are formed into small circles, which just touch
the bosom; and the hair behind is rolled into a rose, by which they
produce a perfect copy of the ancient bust.

CHAPTER X.

_Large Dogs.--A Plan for becoming quickly acquainted with
Paris.--Pantheon.--Tombs of Voltaire and Rousseau.--Politeness of
an Emigrant.--The Beauty of France.--Beauty evanescent.--Place de
Carousel.--Infernal
Machine.--Fouche.--Seine.--Washerwomen.--Fisherwomen.--Baths._

In the streets of Paris, I every where saw an unusual number of very
large, fierce looking dogs, partaking of the breed of the newfoundland,
and british bulldog. During the time of terrour, these brave and
faithful animals were in much request, and are said to have given the
alarm of danger, and saved, in several instances, the lives and property
of their masters, by their accustomed fidelity. Upon my arrival in this
great capital, I was of course desirous of becoming acquainted with its
leading features as soon as possible, for the purpose of being enabled
to explore my way to any part of it, without a guide. The scheme which I
thought of, for this purpose, answered my wishes, and therefore I may
presume to submit it to others.

On the second day after my arrival, I purchased a map of Paris, hired a
fiacre, and drove to the Pantheon. Upon the top gallery which surmounts
its lofty and magnificent dome, I made a survey of the city, which lay
below me, like the chart with which I compared it. The clouds passed
swiftly over my head, and from the shape of the dome, impressed me with
an idea of moving in the air, upon the top, instead of the bottom of a
balloon. I easily attained my object, by tracing the churches, the
temple, the abbey, the palaces, large buildings, and the course and
islands of the river, after which I seldom had occasion to retrace my
steps, when I was roving about, unaccompanied. On account of no coal
being used in Paris, the prospect was perfectly clear, and the air is
consequently salubrious. The Pantheon, or church of St. Genevieve, is a
magnificent