ed the native who told them to
sleep instead of going to Matipa. They bought food, and then believed
that the islet Chirube was too far off, and returned with a most lame
story. We shall make the best of it by going N.W., to be near the islets
and buy food, till we can communicate with Matipa. If he fails us by
fair means, we must seize canoes and go by force. The men say fear of me
makes them act very cowardly. I have gone amongst the whole population
kindly and fairly, but I fear I must now act rigidly, for when they hear
that we have submitted to injustice, they at once conclude that we are
fair game for all, and they go to lengths in dealing falsely that they
would never otherwise attempt. It is, I can declare, not my nature, nor
has it been my practice, to go as if "my back were up."

_19th February, 1873._--A cold wet morning keeps us in this
uncomfortable spot. When it clears up we go to an old stockade, to be
near an islet to buy food. The people, knowing our need, are
extortionate. We went on at 9 A.M. over an extensive water-covered
plain. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and then in it we went
westward, in branches of the Luena, very deep and flowing W. for three
hours. I was carried three miles to a canoe, and we were then near
enough to hear Bangweolo bellowing. The water on the plain is four,
five, and seven feet deep. There are rushes, ferns, papyrus, and two
lotuses, in abundance. Many dark grey caterpillars clung to the grass
and were knocked off as we paddled or poled. Camped in an old village of
Matipa's, where, in the west, we see the Luena enter Lake Bangweolo; but
all is flat prairie or buga, filled with fast-flowing water, save a few
islets covered with palms and trees. Rain continued sprinkling us from
the N.W. all the morning. Elephants had run riot over the ruins, eating
a species of grass now in seed. It resembles millet, and the donkey is
fond of it. I have only seen this and one other species of grass in seed
eaten by the African elephant. Trees, bulbs, and fruits are his
dainties, although ants, whose hills he overturns, are relished. A large
party in canoes came with food as soon as we reached our new quarters:
they had heard that we were in search of Matipa. All are eager for
calico, though they have only raw cassava to offer. They are clothed in
bark-cloth and skins. Without canoes no movement can be made in any
direction, for it is water everywhere, water above and water below.

_