n order that he may have reliable data to guide him in
future operations.

The following facts should be taken into consideration when operating
the Moist-air dry kiln:

1. Before any material has been placed in the drying room,
the steam should be turned into the heating or radiating
coils, gradually warming them, and bringing the temperature
in the kiln up to the desired degree.

2. Care should be exercised that there is sufficient
humidity in the receiving or loading end of the kiln, in
order to guard against checking, case-hardening, etc.
Therefore it is essential that the steam spray at the
receiving or loading end of the kiln be properly
manipulated.

3. As the temperature depends principally upon the pressure
of steam carried in the boilers, maintain a steam pressure
of not less than 80 pounds at all times; it may range as
high as 100 pounds. The higher the temperature with its
relatively high humidity the more rapidly the drying will be
accomplished.

4. Since air circulation is as essential as the proper
degree of heat, and as its contact with the material to be
dried depends upon its free circulation, it is necessary
that the dampers for its admittance into, and its exit from,
the drying room be efficiently and properly operated.
Successful drying cannot be accomplished without ample and
free circulation of air at all times during the drying
process.

If the above basic principles are carefully noted and followed out,
and good common sense used in the handling and operation of the kiln
apparatus, no serious difficulties should arise against the successful
drying of the materials at hand.

Choice of Drying Method

At this point naturally arises the question: Which of the two classes
of dry kilns, the "Moist-air" or "Blower" kiln is the better adapted
for my particular needs?

This must be determined entirely by the species of wood to be dried,
its condition when it goes into the kiln, and what kind of finished
product is to be manufactured from it.

Almost any species of hardwood which has been subjected to
air-seasoning for three months or more may be dried rapidly and in the
best possible condition for glue-jointing and fine finishing with a
"Blower" kiln, but green hardwood, direct from the saw, can only be
successfully dried (if at all) in a "Moist