boil wool in it for 1-1/2 hours. Wash and dry wool. Make a bath of 15
to 20 per cent logwood with about 3 per cent chalk added to it. Boil
the wool for 1 hour, wash and dry. The wool can be greened by steeping
it all night in a hot solution of heather till the desired tint is
obtained.

(4). RAVEN GREY FOR WOOL

Mordant with 25 per cent Alum for 1/2 hour at boiling heat; then take
it out, add to the same liquor 5 per cent copperas, and work it at
boiling heat for 1/2 hour. Then wash. In another copper, boil 50 per
cent logwood chips for 20 minutes. Put the wool into this for 1/2
hour; then return it into the alum and copperas for 10 to 15 minutes.
Wash well.

(5). DARK RED PURPLE WITH LOGWOOD

(2-1/2 lbs.) Mordant with 25 per cent alum and 1 per cent cream of
tartar for 1 hour. Let cool in the mordant, then wring out and put
away for 4 to 5 days.

Dye with 60 per cent logwood and 25 per cent madder. Boil up the
logwood and madder in a separate bath and pour through a sieve into
the dye bath. Enter the wool when warm and bring to the boil. Boil
from 1/2 hour to 1-1/2 hours. Wash thoroughly in soft water.

(6) PURPLE

(For 1 lb.) Mordant wool with 1/4 lb. alum and 1/2 oz. tartar for one
hour; wring out and put away in a bag for some days. Dye with 1/4 lb.
logwood for 1 hour.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote E: If the Extract is used alone, a mordant is not
essential.]

CHAPTER VI

RED

KERMES COCHINEAL MADDER

_KERMES_

Kermes, or Kerms, from which is got the "Scarlet of Grain" of the old
dyers, is one of the old insect dyes. It is considered by most dyers
to be the first of the red dyes, being more permanent than cochineal
and brighter than madder. In the 10th century it was in general use in
Europe. The reds of the Gothic tapestries were dyed with it, and are
very permanent, much more so than the reds of later tapestries, which
were dyed with cochineal. Bancroft says "The Kermes red or scarlet,
though less vivid, is more durable than that of cochineal. The fine
blood-red seen at this time on old tapestries in different parts of
Europe, unfaded, though many of them are two or three hundred years
old, were all dyed from Kermes, with the aluminous basis, on woollen
yarn."

Kermes consists of the dried bodies of a small scale insect, _Coccus
ilicis_, found principally on the ilex oak, in the South of Europe,
and still used there.

William Morris speaks of the "Al-kermes or coccus which produces with