year, they emerge from the earth, and may be seen in great numbers in
the mild evenings of May. The willow seems to be their favourite food;
on this they hang in clusters, and seldom quit it till they have
completely devoured its foliage. The most effectual way to destroy them,
is to beat them off with poles, and then to collect and burn them. The
smoke of burning heath, fern, or other weeds, will prevent their
incursions in gardens, or expel them if they have entered.

COCK ROACHES. These insects, consisting of various species, penetrate
into chests and drawers, and do considerable injury to linen, books, and
other articles. They seldom appear till night, when they infest beds,
and bite very severely, leaving an unpleasant smell. The best remedy is
to fill an earthen dish with small beer, sweetened with coarse sugar,
and set in the place infested. Lay a board against the pan, to form a
kind of ladder, and the insects will ascend and fall into the liquor.

COCKLE KETCHUP. Open the cockles, scald them in their own liquor, and
add a little water, if there be not enough; but it is better to have a
sufficient quantity of cockles, than to dilute it with water. Strain the
liquor through a cloth, and season it with savoury spices. If for brown
sauce, add port, anchovies, and garlic: a bit of burnt sugar will
heighten the colouring. If for white sauce, omit these, and put in a
glass of sherry, some lemon juice and peel, mace, nutmeg, and white
pepper.

COD FISH. In season from the beginning of December till the end of
April. To be quite good, the fish should be thick at the neck, the flesh
white and firm, the gills very red, and the eyes bright and fresh. When
flabby, they are not good. The cod is generally boiled whole; but a
large head and shoulders contain all that is relishing, the thinner
parts being overdone and tasteless before the thick are ready. But the
whole fish may often be purchased more reasonably; and the lower half,
if sprinkled and hung up, will be in high perfection one or two days. Or
it may be made salter, and served with egg sauce, potatoes, and
parsnips. Small cod is usually very cheap. If boiled fresh, it is
watery; but eats well if salted and hung up for a day, to give it
firmness. Then it should be stuffed and boiled, or it is equally good
broiled.

COD'S HEAD. The head and shoulders of the cod will eat much finer by
having a little salt rubbed down the bone, and along the thick part,
eve