as been that of these nations! Three centuries have sufficed to
reverse their position. Civilization, glory, extent of territory, and
material wealth, have all passed over from the one side to the other. Of
the Protestant nations, Britain alone is more powerful than the whole of
combined Europe in the sixteenth century.

But, what is remarkable also, we find the various nations of Europe at
this hour on the same side on which they ranged themselves in the
sixteenth century. Those that neglected the opportunity which that
century brought them of adopting Protestantism and a free government are
to this day despotic. France has submitted to three bloody revolutions,
in the hope of recovering what she criminally missed in the sixteenth
century; but her tears and her blood have been shed in vain. The course
of Spain, and that of the Italian States, have been not unsimilar. They
have plunged into revolutions in quest of liberty, but have found only a
deeper despotism. They have dethroned kings, proclaimed new
constitutions, brought statesmen and citizens by thousands to the block;
they have agonized and bled; but they have been unable to reverse their
fatal choice at the Reformation.

CHAPTER XIII.

SCENERY OF LAKE GARDA--PESCHIERA--VERONA.

Lake Garda--Memories of Trent--The Council of Trent fixed the
Destiny as well as Creed of Rome--Questions for Infallibility--Why
should Infallibility have to grope its Way?--Why does it reveal
Truth piecemeal?--Why does it need Assessors?--The Immaculate
Conception--Town of Desenzano--Magnificent Bullocks--Land of
Virgil--Grandeur of Lake Garda--The Iron Peschiera--The Cypress
Tree--Verona--Imposing Appearance of its Exterior--Richness and
Beauty of surrounding Plains--Palmerston.

When the morning broke we were skirting the base of the Tyrolese Alps. I
could see masses of snow on some of the summits, from which a piercingly
cold air came rushing down upon the plains. In a little the sun rose;
and thankful we were for his warmth. Day was again abroad on the waters
and the hills; and soon we forgot the night, with all its untoward
occurrences. The face of the country was uneven; and we kept alternately
winding and climbing among the spurs of the Alps. At length the
magnificent expanse of Lake Garda, the Benacus of the ancients, opened
before us. In breadth it was like an arm of the sea. There were one or
two tall-masted ships on its wate