me, endure the torture to an end. Our enamoured
countryman was more resolved; he was tattooed from head to foot in the
most approved methods of the art: and at last presented himself before
his mistress a new man. The fickle fair one could never behold him from
that day except with laughter. For my part, I could never see the man
without a kind of admiration; of him it might be said, if ever of any,
that he had loved not wisely, but too well.
The Residency stands by itself, Calaboose Hill screening it from the
fringe of town along the further bay. The house is commodious, with wide
verandahs; all day it stands open, back and front, and the trade blows
copiously over its bare floors. On a week-day the garden offers a scene
of most untropical animation, half a dozen convicts toiling there
cheerfully with spade and barrow, and touching hats and smiling to the
visitor like old attached family servants. On Sunday these are gone, and
nothing to be seen but dogs of all ranks and sizes peacefully slumbering
in the shady grounds; for the dogs of Tai-o-hae are very
courtly-minded, and make the seat of Government their promenade and
place of siesta. In front and beyond, a strip of green down loses itself
in a low wood of many species of acacia; and deep in the wood a ruinous
wall encloses the cemetery of the Europeans. English and Scottish sleep
there, and Scandinavians, and French _maitres de manoeuvres_ and
_maitres ouvriers;_ mingling alien dust. Back in the woods perhaps, the
blackbird, or (as they call him there) the island nightingale, will be
singing home strains; and the ceaseless requiem of the surf hangs on the
ear. I have never seen a resting-place more quiet; but it was a long
thought how far these sleepers had all travelled, and from what diverse
homes they had set forth, to lie here in the end together.
On the summit of its promontory hill, the calaboose stands all day with
doors and window shutters open to the trade. On my first visit a dog was
the only guardian visible. He, indeed, rose with an attitude so menacing
that I was glad to lay hands on an old barrel-hoop; and I think the
weapon must have been familiar, for the champion instantly retreated,
and as I wandered round the court and through the building, I could see
him, with a couple of companions, humbly dodging me about the corners.
The prisoners' dormitory was a spacious, airy room, devoid of any
furniture; its whitewashed walls covered with inscriptions
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