ews. A hundred steps lead to the top, and the ascent repays the
climb. The Cuilgach range, source of the Shannon, the Blue Stack
mountains of Donegal, the ancient church and round tower of Devenish,
an island in the Great Lough Erne, and due west the Benbulben hills,
are easily visible. Devenish island is about two miles away, and,
although without a tree, is very interesting. Some of the Priory still
remains, and I have found a Latin inscription in Lombardic characters
which, being interpreted, reads Mathew O'Dughagan built this,
Bartholomew O'Flauragan being Prior, A.D. 1449. There is a graveyard
next the ruins, and a restored Round Tower, eighty-five feet high, not
far away, the door of which is ten feet from the ground. These towers
are sprinkled all over the country, and in nearly all the door is
eight feet to twenty feet from the ground. The process of eviction
seems to have been present to the minds of the builders. The sheriffs'
officers of a thousand years ago must have been absolutely powerless
in presence of a No Rent manifesto. Steamers are running on the Lower
Lough from Enniskillen to Belleek, about twenty-two miles. You can
sail there and back for eighteen-pence. The Upper Lough is said to be
still more beautiful, the tourist agents have recently been trying to
open up this lovely island-studded lake. The beauties of Ireland are
as unspeakable as they are unknown. The strip of sea holds some
tourists back, and others seek the prestige of holiday on the
Continong. A German traveller, hight Broecker, declares that Ireland
beats his previous record, and that the awful grandeur of the Antrim
coast has not its equal in Europe, while the wild west with its heavy
Atlantic seas, is finer far than Switzerland. Germans are everywhere.
The Westenra Arms of Monaghan boasted a waiter from the Lake of
Constanz, and I met a German philologist at Enniskillen who had his
own notions about Irish politics. He ridiculed the attitude of
England, or rather of Gladstonian England, and rated Home Rulers
generally in good set terms.

"The business of England is to rule Ireland. Justly, of course, but to
rule. That is if England has any regard for her own reputation. A
colonel must rule his regiment, a teacher must rule his class, the
captain must rule his crew, or disorder and damage to all parties will
be the inevitable result. England stands to her acquisitions, whether
conquered or peacefully colonised, in the relationship of