l in top-working.

2. Splice graft; unexcelled when scion and stock are of equal diameter.

3. Modified cleft graft; for all general purposes.

4. Plate bud; for small and medium stocks.]

The tying material should be cut and removed within a few days after the
bud starts, to prevent strangulation of the tender shoot. Be sure to
keep native growth of the stock trimmed off until midsummer to force
growth of the bud.

The second period for successful plate budding of the walnut centers
around August first, varying somewhat with the weather conditions. Buds
of the current season's growth are used. The time must be late enough
for these buds to be well matured, and early enough so that the stock is
still growing and the bark slipping. If the buds are immature, or the
bark tight, the operation will be a failure.

The buds remain dormant during the following winter, and are forced into
growth by cutting off the stock above the bud early in the spring. The
tying material, if durable, should be removed about 30 days after
budding.

If conditions are right and the work is properly done, a high percentage
of "takes" may be expected. In summer I preferably place the bud on the
shady side of the stock, or shade it with a little skirt of white paper
tied just above the bud.

Chestnuts can be budded by the same method, but the spring budding
should be done earlier, while the stocks are in bud, and the summer
budding should be done two or three weeks later than with the walnut.

I have not tried the plate bud on hickory or pecan, but it is the only
budding method I use on walnut and chestnut, and I have tried them all.

When it comes to grafting, the simple splice graft, as illustrated, is
very successful, but it should only be used when scion and stock are of
the same size. It works splendidly on chestnut, filbert and hickory, and
can also be used on walnut; however, I prefer the modified cleft graft
for the latter, because of the bleeding problem.

In making the splice graft, the diagonal cut should be about four times
as long as the diameter of the scion, to prevent slippage in tying.

For the modified cleft graft I cut the stock off at the selected point
at an angle of from 45 to 60 degrees. This greatly facilitates the
healing of the entire wound.

The cleft is made not by splitting, but by making a cut with a sharp
knife, beginning at the apex of the stock and cutting diagonally
downward and inward toward the cent