s besieged by the Turks during his sojourn within its walls.

So, accompanied by a guide, with whom the Governor of Kolasin had
provided us, we made an early start one morning for the monastery. We
had a perfect ride through dense beech forests, skirting a noisy
little stream, of which we were able to obtain a glimpse every now and
then through a break in the trees. On either side of the ravine the
hills rose steeply to some height. We soon passed a lonely cross in a
small clearing, erected to the memory of five Montenegrins who had
been surprised and murdered there by the Turks.

It is always so in Montenegro, when the traveller is filled with a
sense of peace at the grandeur of the wild mountainous scenery, or the
beauty of a sylvan forest glade, a rough cross, or cairn of stones,
will be pointed out where men have met a sudden and violent death.

[Illustration: A TYPICAL ROAD]

Once, as our path led up a steep incline, our guide told us
graphically how that, a few weeks ago, both a horse and its rider had
fallen down the one hundred feet into the river below. The path was
very narrow, and he strongly advised us in passing to take care, which
remark seemed slightly superfluous after the vivid description with
which he had just favoured us.

Crossing the stream we dismounted, and climbed to a small grassy
plateau on which a church is being built for the shepherds of the
district. It commanded a beautiful view. The path now ascended to a
great height, and much walking had to be done, for a ridge of hills
lay between us and our destination. At the top the valley of the
Moraca could be seen with a magnificent background of rugged
mountains. A breakneck descent of two and a half hours, most of it on
foot, brought us to the river, which was crossed by a picturesque and
broken-down bridge. On a cliff opposite stood the monastery.

While leading my horse over the bridge I chanced to rest for a moment
on the central arch to enjoy the view. The guide, who was behind me,
thrust me unceremoniously forward. It is not always safe to admire
scenery from Montenegrin bridges. Certainly, on inspecting the bridge
from below, he seemed to have shown no unnecessary caution. Two of
the arches had completely given, and may collapse at any moment.

A very steep and dangerous path leads up to the plateau on which the
monastery is situated. It was nearly the cause of a serious accident
to me, for my saddle gave, and began to slip backwa