beautifully
cultivated valley spread itself out before us; comfortable tents were
prepared for our reception, where we were met by some of the State
officials; and a perfectly appointed carriage-and-four was waiting
to carry us on to Khatmandu, where we were received by the Resident,
Lieutenant-Colonel Wylie, and his wife, old friends of ours. That
afternoon the Maharaja paid me a private visit.

The next morning the official call was made, which I returned soon
afterwards; and in the evening the Maharaja, accompanied by his eldest
son and eight of his brothers, all high officers of state, were
present at Mrs. Wylie's reception, wearing military frock-coats and
forage-caps. They all spoke English fluently; their manners were those
of well-bred gentlemen, easy and quiet, as free from awkwardness as
from forwardness; each, coming up in turn, talked very pleasantly
to Lady Roberts for a time, and then made way for someone else. The
Maharaja is extremely musical, and has several well-trained bands,
taught by an English bandmaster; three of them were in attendance, and
were directed to play selections from our favourite operas, and then a
number of the beautiful plaintive Nepalese airs. Altogether, we passed
a most agreeable evening.

The following day a review of all the troops (18,000 men and 78
guns)[8] was held on a ground one mile in length by half a mile in
breadth, perfectly level and well turfed. It would be considered a
fine parade-ground for the plains of India, and must have entailed a
considerable expenditure of time, labour, and money to make in such a
hilly place as Khatmandu.

On reaching the ground, I was received by the Maharaja and Deb
Shamsher Jung, the eldest of his many brothers, and the nominal
Commander-in-Chief of the army; we rode along the line together,
and the march past then began. Everything was done with the utmost
precision; there was no fuss or talking, and from first to last not a
single bugle sound was heard, showing how carefully officers and men
had been drilled. I was told that the executive Commander-in-Chief,
the third brother, by name Chandra Shamsher, had almost lived on the
parade-ground for weeks before my arrival. The Maharaja's sons
and brothers, who all knew their work, and were evidently fond of
soldiering, commanded the several divisions and brigades.

The troops were not, perhaps, turned out quite so smartly as those
in our service, and several of the officers were old a