of peace, and could not
possibly leave their village in such evil times. Suddenly a man from
the crowd, offered his services. His appearance was against him, and
the villagers declared that he was a notorious cattle-lifter, who was
strongly suspected of having set fire to the collector's (Mr. Ford's)
office at Gurgaon, in order that the evidences of his offences might
be destroyed. Not a pleasant _compagnon de voyage_, but there was
nothing for it but to accept his offer.

As soon as it was dark a start was made, and at daybreak on the
29th the minarets of Delhi rose out of the morning mist, while an
occasional shell might be seen bursting near the city.

On reaching the Hansi road, the guide, by name Jumna Das, who, in
spite of appearances, had proved true to his word, stopped and said he
could go no further. He would not take any reward that it was then in
the power of Stewart or Ford to offer him, but he expressed a hope
that, when the country became settled, the slight service he had
performed would not be forgotten. They gratefully assured him on this
point, and thanked him cordially, giving him at the same time a letter
testifying to his valuable service. Stewart then went to the nearest
village, and for a small reward found a man who undertook to conduct
them safely to one of our piquets.

One curious circumstance remarked by Stewart throughout the ride was
that the peasants and villagers, though not generally hostile to him,
had evidently made up their minds that the British _raj_ was at an
end, and were busily engaged in rendering their villages defensible,
to meet the troubles and disturbances which they considered would
surely follow on the resumption of Native rule.

It is difficult to over-estimate the pluck and enterprise displayed
by Stewart during this most adventurous ride. It was a marvel that he
ever reached Delhi. His coming there turned out to be the best thing
that ever happened to him, for the qualities which prompted him to
undertake and carried him through his dangerous journey, marked him as
a man worthy of advancement and likely to do well.

[Footnote 1: While the regiment was in the act of mutinying one of the
sepoys left the parade-ground, and running round to all the civilians'
houses, told the occupants what had happened, and warned them to make
their escape. He asked for no reward, and was never seen again.]

[Footnote 2: Native magistrate.]

[Footnote 3: City magistrate.]