breed and Chinese Tagals know so well the effect it produces on
the Europeans, that nothing would induce them to alter it.

While on the subject of dress, that of the men is also worthy of
remark. The Indian and the half-breed wear upon the head a large
straw hat, black or white, or a sort of Chinese covering, called a
salacote; upon the shoulders, the pine fibre kerchief embroidered;
and round the neck, a rosary of coral beads; their shirts are also
made from the fibres of the pine, or of vegetable silk; trousers of
coloured silk, with embroidery near the bottom, and a girdle of red
China crape, complete their costume. The feet, without stockings,
are covered with European shoes.

The military town, so quiet during the day, assumes a more lively
appearance towards the evening, when the inhabitants ride out in
their very magnificent carriages, which are invariably conducted
by postilions; they then mix with the walking population of
Binondoc. Afterwards visits, balls, and the more intimate reunions
take place. At the latter they talk, smoke the cigars of Manilla,
and chew the betel, [2] drink glasses of iced eau sucree, and eat
innumerable sweetmeats; towards midnight those guests retire who do
not stay supper with the family, which is always served luxuriously,
and generally prolonged until two o'clock in the morning. Such is the
life spent by the wealthy classes under these skies so favoured by
Heaven. But there exists, as in Europe, and even to a greater extent,
the most abject misery, of which I shall speak hereafter, throwing
a shade over this brilliant picture.

I shall now return to my personal adventures. While I spoke with
the Indians upon the shore, I had noticed a young European standing
not many paces from me; I again met him on the road I took towards
Manilla, and I thought I would address him. This young man was a
surgeon, about returning to Europe. I partly told him the plans I
wished to form, and asked him for some information respecting the city
where I purposed locating myself. He readily satisfied my inquiries,
and encouraged me in the resolution to exercise my profession in
the Philippine Islands. He had himself, he said, conceived the same
project, but family affairs obliged him to return to his country. I
did not conceal the misfortune of my position, and observed that it
would be almost impossible to pay visits in the costume, worse than
plain, which I then wore.

"That is of no consequence,"