Tinguians
and Igorrots, wild populations, who were much talked of, but little
known. I wished to study them myself. I took the precaution not to
confide this idea to anybody, for then, indeed, people would not
have known what name to give my folly. I made my preparations, and
set out with my faithful lieutenant, Alila, who never left me, and
who was justly styled Mabouti-Tao. We were mounted upon good horses,
that carried us along like gazelles to Vigan, the chief town of the
province of South Ilocos, where we left the animals. From there we
took a guide, who conducted us on foot to the east, close to a small
river called Abra (opening). This river is the only issue by which
we could penetrate to the Tinguians. It winds around high mountains
of basalt; its sides are steep; its bed is encumbered with immense
blocks of rock, fallen from the sides of the mountains, which render
it impossible to walk along its banks. To reach the Tinguians, it
is necessary to have recourse to a slight skiff, that can easily
pass through the current and the most shallow parts. My guide and
my lieutenant soon contrived to make a small raft of bamboos; when
it was finished we embarked, Alila and myself, our guide refusing
to accompany us. After much trouble and fatigue, casting ourselves
often into the water to draw our raft along, we at length got clear
of the first range of mountains, and perceived, in a small plain,
the first Tinguian village. When we reached there we got out, and
went towards the huts we had distinguished in the distance. I allow
it was acting rather foolishly to go and thus expose ourselves,
in the midst of a colony of ferocious and cruel men whose language
we did not know; but I relied upon my usual good fortune. I will add
that I had taken divers objects with me to give as presents, trusting
to meet some inhabitant speaking the Tagaloc language. I walked on,
then, without troubling myself about what would become of us. In a
few minutes we reached the nearest cabins, and the inhabitants gave
us at first an unwelcome reception. Frightened at seeing us approach,
they advanced towards us, armed with hatchets and spears; we waited
for them without recoiling in the least. I spoke to them by signs,
and showed them some necklaces of glass beads, to make them understand
we were friendly disposed. They deliberated among themselves, and when
they had held their consultation, they beckoned us to follow them. We
obeyed. They led us