e Baths of Caracalla--a mass of ruins; the
Forum; the Temples of Vesta and Isis; the Coliseum, and the classic old
Pantheon. These form a kind of skeleton for the regulation sight-seeing
of the Eternal City; things which, once done, are checked off with the
feeling that the entire duty of the tourist has been fulfilled, and
that, henceforth in Rome, there is laid up for him the crown of
enjoyment, if not rejoicing; that he may go again and again to study the
marvellous treasures of the Vatican galleries, the masterpieces of art
in the Raphael stanze in the Vatican, the interesting pictures and
sculpture in the many rich churches and galleries. The deadly chill of
most of these galleries and churches in the winter is beyond words to
describe. It is as if the gloom and chill and darkness of a thousand
centuries were there concentrated.

One of the regulation places for the devout sight-seer, who feels
responsible to his conscience for improving his privileges, is the Museo
Nazionale, or the Tiberine Museum, a large proportion of whose treasures
have been excavated in making the new embankments of the Tiber. It is
located on the site of the Baths of Diocletian, the great ruins of which
surround it in the most uncanny way. Built around a large court, the
salons of the museum are entered from the inner cloisters. In the centre
of the court is a fountain, and around it are antique fragments of
statues, columns, and statuettes found in many places. The famous
Ludovisi collection of antique statuary is now permanently placed in
this museum,--a collection that includes the "Ludovisi Mars;"
"Hercules," with a cornucopia; the "Hermes of Theseus," the "Discobolus
Hermes;" the "Venus of Gnidus" as copied by Praxiteles; the "Dying
Medusa;" the "Ludovisi Juno," which Winckelmann declares to be the
finest head of Juno extant, a Greek work of the fourth century; a "Cupid
and Psyche;" the two "Muses of Astronomy" and of "Epic Poetry," "Urania
and Calliope;" "an Antoninus;" the largest sarcophagus known; a "Tragic
Mask" (colossal) in rosso antico; a bust of "Marcus Aurelius" in bronze,
and many other priceless works.

The splendor of scenic setting for art in the magnificent salons of the
Casino Borghese has never been surpassed. They are, perhaps, the most
impressive of any Roman interior, with lofty, splendidly decorated
ceilings and walls, where recess and niche hold priceless sculptures.
The splendor of these salons, indeed, quite ex