ally supposed to be those of the saint
who had been so long venerated on that spot. The discovery was
hailed with the utmost exultation, not by the people only, but by
those who led the minds and consciences of the people. The Pope
himself, Urban VIII, composed hymns in her praise; and Cardinal
Francesco Barberini undertook to rebuild her church."
The painter, Pietro da Cortona, entered into this feeling and at his own
expense built the chapel and painted for its altar piece the picture
representing the saint in triumph, while the temple in which she has
gone to sacrifice falls in ruins from a raging tempest.
In any stray ramble in Rome the sojourner might chance, at any moment,
upon obelisk, a pedestal or inscription linked with the great names of
the historic past. Hawthorne has recorded how, by mere chance, he turned
from the Via delle Quattro Fontane into the Via Quirinale and was thus
lured on to an obelisk and a fountain on the pedestal of which on one
side was the inscription, "Opus Phidias," and on the other, "Opus
Praxiteles," and he exclaims:--
"What a city is this, when one may stumble, by mere chance--at a
street corner as it were--on the works of two such sculptors! I do
not know the authority," he continues, "on which these statues
(Castor and Pollux I presume) are attributed to Phidias and
Praxiteles; but they impressed me as noble and godlike, and I feel
inclined to take them for what they purport to be."
While the Papal ceremonies are neither so frequent nor so magnificent as
in former days, still any hotel guest in Rome is liable, any morning,
on coming down to the _salle-a-manger_ for coffee, to find every woman
(who is taking her Rome seriously) arrayed in a black robe with a black
lace veil on her head. One would fancy they were all a procession of
nuns, about to retire from the world into the strict seclusion of the
cloister. But it is nothing so momentous. It is only that every lady,
with the devotion to spectacles which every visitor in Rome feels, as a
matter of course, has secured the pink ticket entitling her to admission
to the Vatican Palace to see the "passage" of the Pope, as he makes his
way, attended by the Cardinals of the Sacred College, to the Sistine
Chapel where his Holiness "creates" new Cardinals. Although rumored that
the spectacle will be a gorgeous one, that the Pope will be carried
aloft preceded by the silver trump
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