her slow and expensive. As an illustration of the
isolation of the boarders in an English hotel, it may be mentioned that
two Southern ladies, acquaintances of a member of our party, were
staying at the Burlington at the same time with ourselves, without our
knowledge of the fact. Meals were usually served in the coffee room, the
regular dinner consisting of a "joint," and one or two dishes of
vegetables, any dish not included in this very plain bill of fare being
furnished at an extra charge. Including fees to servants, etc., which
are regularly entered in the bill, one may live very comfortably in an
English hotel for five dollars a day, but not for less.
In thirty days from our arrival in England, the Giraffe was reported
laden and ready for sea. Besides the purchases made through my agency, a
large quantity of lithographic material had been bought by Major Ficklin
for the Treasury Department; and twenty-six lithographers were engaged
for the Confederate Government.
We took the train for Glasgow as soon as we were notified that the
Giraffe was ready for sea; parting from our London friends with mutual
good wishes and regrets.
There is a striking contrast between the scenery in the south of
England, and that in the northern portion. As we approached the "iron
country" even the fresh green woods disappeared, and for many miles on
our way we could see tall chimneys pouring forth huge volumes of smoke,
and we passed numerous coal pits, while the whole busy population seemed
to be begrimed with coal dust and iron filings. As we approached Glasgow
the scenery again changed to broad and well cultivated plains in the
immediate vicinity of the city. Its trade with Virginia and the West
Indies laid the foundation of its present prosperity. To this day there
are many descendants in Richmond of the old Scotch merchants who
formerly traded in tobacco between that port and Glasgow, but of late
years it has become chiefly noted for its iron ships and steamers, which
are unsurpassed; and it is now, I believe, the second city in the United
Kingdom in point of wealth and population. The Clyde, naturally an
insignificant stream, has been deepened by art until it is now navigable
for the largest vessels.
We were so busily occupied, during our brief stay, as to be able to see
very little of the city or its environs. The city itself was enveloped
in a fog during the whole time; its normal atmospheric condition, I
presume; for once
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