e, though not so safe an animal for the
narrow tracks, up and down steep mountains, on the summit of terrific
precipices, and across rickety bridges which we were about to traverse.
They were caparisoned much in the same way. Our saddles were huge and
deep, covered with red woolly rugs; our stirrups were of Moorish shape,
large wooden boxes strapped with iron; the girths were broad; and belts
fastened to the saddle, passed round the breast and haunches of the
animals, prevented it from slipping off when going up or down the almost
precipitous declivities in our way. Our luggage was carried in huge
trunks, made of untanned bullocks' hides, fastened with thongs of the
same material, each mule carrying two slung on either side of his back.
In some our clothes were packed, in others our mattresses and bedding,
and in others our mess utensils and provisions; for as there were no
inns, it was necessary to take everything which would be required. We
rode ahead, our peons or muleteers following the beasts of burden.
Before the introduction of horses and mules, the Indians employed the
delicate llama to carry goods through the country. We had heavy spurs,
and sharp bits to our bridles, and wore broad-brimmed hats and ponchos.
The last named garment may be described as a large piece of cloth of
wool or cotton, of a round form, with a hole in the centre. Through
this hole the head is put, while the cloth falls over the shoulders, and
forms a very effectual protection from the weather. It was used by the
Indians before the conquest.
My mother and Lilly assisted in preparing and packing our provisions and
clothes; and with prayers for our safety, at an early hour one morning
they saw us mount and commence our journey. "Good-bye, mother;
good-bye, Lilly," I exclaimed, as I seated myself in my saddle. "I will
bring you back, like the princes in the Arabian Nights, all the most
wonderful things I can collect." Their hearts were too full to answer,
and their eyes were moist with tears; for they could not conceal from
themselves that there were many very considerable dangers which we must
encounter on the road. They stood watching us while we wound our way
down the steep path, and crossed the bridge which spanned the river at
the bottom of the ravine. I propose giving a very brief sketch of our
journey, and shall dwell only on the more interesting incidents; or I
might otherwise fill my book with an account of what we saw in
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