scribably filthy, had been the site of the white-hooded waggons and
ragged tents of the laager itself. The road was of no interest, merely
rolling veldt with a very few scattered farmhouses, apparently deserted;
but one noticed that rough attempts had been made in the way of
irrigation, and that, as one approached the Transvaal, pools of water
were frequently to be seen.

A shallow ditch was pointed out to us by the driver, as the boundary
between Her Majesty's colony and the South African Republic, and after
another eight or ten miles we saw a few white roofs and trees, which
proved to be Otto's Hoep, in the Malmani Gold District, from which
locality great things had been hoped in bygone days, before the Rand
was ever thought of. At the tiny hotel we found several officers and men
of the Imperial Light Horse, who, warned by a telephone message from
Mafeking, had ordered us an excellent hot lunch. The proprietor, of
German origin, could do nothing but stare at us while we were eating the
meal, apparently amazed at finding his house reopened after so many
months of inactivity, and that people were actually prepared to pay for
what they had. We soon pushed on again, and just after leaving the hotel
a sharp turn brought us to a really wide river, close to where the
Imperial Light Horse were encamped. Our driver turned the horses' heads
towards it, and without any misgivings we plunged in. The water grew
deeper and deeper, and our thoughts flew to our portmanteaus, tied on
behind, which were practically submerged. Just then the leaders took it
into their heads they preferred not to go any farther, and forthwith
turned round and faced us. The black coachman, however, did not lose his
head, but pulled the wheelers round also, and we soon found ourselves
again on the same bank from which we had started. Had it not been for a
kind trooper of the Imperial Light Horse, our chances of getting across
would have been nil. This friend in need mounted a loose horse, and
succeeded in coaxing and dragging our recalcitrant leaders, and forcing
them to face the rushing stream. Once again our portmanteaus had a cold
bath, but this time we made a successful crossing, and went gaily on our
way. The road was now much improved and the country exceedingly pretty.
Many snug little houses, sheltered by rows of cypress, tall eucalyptus
and huge orange-trees laden with yellow fruit, their gardens intersected
by running brooks, appeared on all sides;