ove. Here they graze in herds morning and evening,
and here probably they meet their death--but of this more anon. It took
our party ten days to reach Kalomo,[50] then the capital of
North-Western Rhodesia. This included a six days' halt in quest of game
on a rocky kopje eight miles off the road--a veritable Spion Kop, rising
from a flat country and commanding views for miles round.

As regards travelling, I can only say it was very comfortable as we did
it. Riding ourselves, our baggage (divided into loads each weighing
about 30 pounds) was carried by natives, who generally preceded us out
of camp. The day's journey was divided as follows: Up before the sun,
and dressing by the uncertain light of a candle lantern. It was cold
enough to render no dawdling possible, and one hurried one's toilet in
order to get to the already brightly burning fire and steaming hot
coffee. The sun would just then be showing its red head in the far east,
and already the camp was in commotion; tents were being struck, bedding
rolled up, while a certain amount of scrambling would be going on
amongst the cunning blacks, each wishing to possess himself of the
lightest load. To prevent shirking, one or two of the native police who
accompanied us watched the proceeding with lynx-like eyes, and, amid
much arguing, chattering, and apparent confusion, a long line of
carriers would emerge like a black snake from the camping-ground into an
orderly string--quaint figures, some of them wrapped in gaudy blankets,
and even then shivering in the keen morning air; some with their load on
their heads, others carrying it on long sticks, all with the inevitable
native vessel, fashioned from a gourd, containing their daily ration of
grain. As a supplement to these carriers, we were also accompanied by
the (in Africa) familiar "Scotch cart." In other words, this is a strong
cart on two wheels, drawn by bullocks, and its usual pace is about two
and a half miles an hour. It apparently possesses the delightful
qualification of being able to travel on any road, no matter how rough,
without breaking down or turning over; in fact, when travelling by road
in Africa, it facilitates matters as much as the employment of a
charwoman oils the wheels in an English household, and it is therefore
as much to be recommended.

We ride for an hour or so with coats tightly buttoned up, blue noses,
and frozen fingers--for the hoar-frost still lingers on the ground--but
the air is d