yor to the community, and
a Government inspector of cattle had equally arduous duties to perform.
I must mention that, owing to disease in the south, cattle were then not
allowed to cross the Zambesi, and horses and dogs had to be disinfected
before they were permitted to leave the south bank. Their troubles were
not even then over, as they had to be swum across the river, and, owing
to its enormous width, the poor horses were apt to become exhausted
halfway over, and had to be towed the rest of the way, their heads being
kept out of the water--an operation attended with a certain amount of
risk. It followed that very few horses were crossed over at all, and
that these animals in North-Western Rhodesia were at a premium.

From the Controller's Camp I had another opportunity to admire the river
itself, just as wonderful in its way as the Falls, and I remember
thinking of the delights that might be derived from boating, sailing, or
steaming, on its vast surface. Since that day the enterprising
inhabitants have actually held regattas on the mighty stream, in which
some of the best-known men in the annals of rowing in England have taken
part. But seven years ago our river trip was attended with mild
excitements; the small skiff, carrying our party of six, was an
excessively leaky canoe, which had to be incessantly baled out to keep
it afloat, and wherein, notwithstanding our efforts, a deep pool of
water accumulated, necessitating our sitting with feet tucked under us
in Oriental fashion. Hence I cannot say we realized to the full the
enjoyments of boating as we know it at home in far less beautiful
surroundings, or as others know it there at the present time.

The principal features that struck me were, first, the colossal width
of the river. As we gazed across the translucent surface, reflecting as
in a looking-glass the fringe of trees along the edge, the first
impression was that your eyes actually perceived the opposite bank; but
we were undeceived by one of the residents, who observed that was only
an island, and that there were several such between us and the north
side. Secondly, we marvelled at the clearness of the water, reflecting
the blueness above; and, thirdly, at the rich vegetation and the intense
green of the overhanging foliage, where the graceful and so rarely seen
palms of the Borassus tribe were growing to an immense height. All was
enhanced by the most intense solitude, which seemed to accentuate the